General disclaimer: The following information is probably incorrect,
egregiously misleading, full of gross factual errors, you are
likely to die if you follow this advice (in legal terms, blah,
blah, blah, blah, blah....; in Webspeak, your mileage may vary).
Climbing is an insane endeavor pursued by idiots! Have a good
This has been compiled based upon my own experience, with input
from other helpful rec.climbing contributors.
Why a FAQ on the Casual Route?
The Casual Route is often pretty crowded during good weather and
on weekends, and not everyone I contacted was enthusiastic about
the idea of doing anything that would encourage even more people
to frequent the route. However... 2 reasons for a FAQ -
1) Giving climbers a better idea of what the route is like may
help them decide whether or not they should be climbing it. This
might be particularly helpful for out-of-state climbers that don't
have easy access to any first-hand "beta" on the route.
2) The main problem with other climbers on the route is slow parties,
particularly since several routes converge near the top. Some
of this could be prevented if people are better prepared, and
that's what this FAQ is for.
How to get to the base of the Casual Route: Approaches
You're there and ready to climb - what next? The Climb
OK, you made it to the top - now how do you get down?
Then, of course, you need to consider strategy - do you want
to do it in a long day vs. bivy?
How do you want to handle the pack?
Probably the main reason that people back off the Diamond
is the weather. How do you know
when it's a good day to try the Diamond? Since everybody has something
to say about the weather, here's more advice on the weather
from other climbers on the Internet.
You say you want to make it up before it snows on you? Good
idea! How long is it going to take?
It's been a long winter - lots of sausages and beer, dunkin'
donuts and coffee, you've put on a few pounds - just how hard is
the Casual Route?
Want to know what gear to bring?
Want to see some pictures?
- 2600' trailhead to bivy (9400-12000 feet)
- 2250' to summit from the bivy
- (Approach 400'; N. Chimney 700'; Casual Route 950'; Table
Ledge to summit 400')
And some more useful advice from
other rec.climbing readers
All this information was collected by Tom Dunwiddie (Tom.Dunwiddie@UCHSC.edu)
Any and all comments and suggestions are welcome - if there
are things that I've left out, let me know!