The Climb
This doesn't replace the numerous guides that exist (Gillett's
guide, Rossiter's guide, Rock and Ice #13, the new plasticized
topo map by Clay Wadman, 100 Select, etc.), but provides supplemental
information. Route finding is not at all difficult, particularly
when compared to many other routes in RMNP. In most cases you
just climb the only thing that looks reasonable - everything else
is too hard!
Click
to see photo of route - belay spots marked with red dots.
Pitch by pitch (165' rope)
There are a variety of ways to get up N. Chimney, somewhat
dependent upon what time of year you are there. Although many
people go up N. Chimney unroped, there are approximately 4 spots
you might want a belay, especially if you are laden down with
a pack. 1) up initial slabs 2) around the big chockstone 3) slabs
to Bdwy 4) the traverse around the head of N. Chimney
1) One long pitch up D1 pillar; belay just above the top of
the pillar at the base of the finger crack.
2) The only complicated pitch; climb up the 5.9 finger crack
to a bunch of anchors, then traverse across (actually across,
up a little, down a bit, and then across) to a semi-hanging belay.
As all the guides warn you, don't start the traverse too low;
follow the fixed pro.
3) Up crack system to either wet grassy ledges (more spacious)
or to sloping slab at base of dihedral (pick this latter only
if the former is too wet, or you want to try to make the entire
dihedral in one pitch - even then, it's a stretch and you can't
make it all the way to Yellow Wall bivy ledge).
4) One pitch of moderate length leads up the dihedral; belay
on left wall about half way up.
5) Finish up the dihedral and go to Yellow Wall bivy ledge.
6) Go up the crack above the belay, through the chimney, and
finish with one hard move at the crack/overhang at the top. The
fixed pin at the crux mentioned in previous guides disappeared
as of 8/95; however, a 0.5 Camalot works fine.
7 & 8) Traverse left 2 pitches to get off via Table Ledge/Crack.
The 5.8+ start of this traverse would not be fun in rain/snow.
Want to know what gear to take along?
Back to the beginning
Click
to see photo of route - belay spots marked with red dots.