Descent
There are many possible options for getting off after completing
the route. To some extent, which way you go will depend upon how
you made the approach, and whether you have left gear anywhere.
1) Summit (you can bypass the summit if weather is threatening),
and descend the cables route to Chasm View,
which usually involves one 165' rappel. From the base of the cables
rappel, traverse along the top of Chasm View wall to the very
low point between Longs and Lady Washington. Don't forget to stop
and look over the edge of Chasm View down Directissima & Red
Wall. From the low point, downclimb (5.3) 40 feet into a gully
(this is the second gully you come to) and down this to where
it narrows dramatically. From this point a huge ledge called the
Sidewalk traverses the base of Chasm View wall and will deposit
you close to the base of the N. Chimney. This descent has the
advantage of being direct, and fairly obvious. However, the N.
face is often covered with snow early in the year, and it would
be hard to find the bolt anchor for the rappel in the dark.
2) Rappel; there is a new line of bolted rap anchors which
start down from the top of D7 (you walk past this on Table Ledge
at the top of the Casual route). Five 150' rappels take you down
to Broadway, then another set of four rappels (some 160') goes
down Crack of Delight (south of North Chimney) to the Mills Glacier.
To get to the top of the lower set of raps, look for the first
anchors almost directly below the start of the Casual/D1 (you
have to walk down to the south and then back north to reach them).
As you descend, look to the right (facing the rock) for large
Metolius rap hangers. There are no chains, and the next anchors
are always to the right - sometimes thirty or forty feet. I personally
don't like rappelling, but this would be an attractive option
earlier in the year when you might have to carry boots/crampons/ice
axes to get off via the above routes.
3) Summit, and hike down the Trough. I've never done it -
it's pretty long, and has lots of hikers on it, but is technically
the easiest. Nobody seems to recommend this unless you top out
in the dark.
You got snowed on and didn't make it up? You need to know
how to escape.
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