Approaches

North Chimney: getting to the base of rock can be a problem, especially late in year when the glacier gets pretty hard. Rockfall can be a problem if there are a lot of people going up at the same time, or if someone is rapping it (they shouldn't be, but not everyone knows about the Crack of Delight raps). It has the advantage that the bivy sites are much nicer than Chasm View, and the approach via the trail is shorter. The disadvantage is that someone coming from Chasm View can almost always beat anyone coming up the North Chimney since they can start in the dark, or at least at first light. You cannot do the North Chimney in the dark.

Chasm View Rappels: Rap anchors can be buried in snow early season; also can be threatened by cornices early on, and you might need an axe to traverse Bdwy when snowy. Advantage is that approach is straightforward, and you don't have to worry about rockfall in N. Chimney. Disadvantage is that if you bivy at Chasm View, it adds about another 1000 feet vertical to the approach, you have to carry water to the bivy site from the Boulderfield, and you have a problem if you get rained off and you are on Broadway with your gear at Chasm View.

Here's a few other opinions on the various approaches from other climbers as well.

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